Standing outside the fire

It’s been many years since I’ve listened to country music. While my childhood was filled with artists like LeAnn Rimes and George Strait, for whatever reason, when I hit high school, my tastes changed. But nine months ago I was pleasantly surprised to come across songs that took me back to that time. One of which was Garth Brooks’ “Standing outside the Fire.”

The lyrics seemed a perfect representation of the journey I’ve been on over the last twenty seven months. Having officially closed out my service, I am no longer a volunteer, but a “Returned Peace Corps Volunteer,” as the new title states. However, my return home is still a few weeks away, as a trip to other parts of South America is in order first. But now that I have finished my Peace Corps service, that particular song floats through my head.

Over the last two years, I was asked one question many times: “So, why did you join Peace Corps?” It’s a fair question. Peace Corps staff had to ask it. When I met fellow volunteers, it was an easy ice breaker. Or in the quiet of an afternoon, it was something to reflect upon. I would think back to those months when I started reading about what Peace Corps is. I recalled my thought-process before applying and conversations I had with my cousin – another RPCV. It’s astounding to think, sometimes, just how much my life has changed since then. How much I have changed too. But that personal change is something that’s harder for me to see. Sort of like how you don’t notice something is growing right before your eyes, because you see it every day. Like a photograph of yourself from five years ago. Suddenly, time passes, and you blink to find a new version of who you were before. You’re still the same, but something is different now. Something has shifted and molded you into who you were always meant to be.

People join Peace Corps for a variety of reasons. I became a volunteer for a little bit of each of those. I had a job I loved, but was itching for something new. I wanted to see the world. Learn a new language. Challenge myself. Leap far out of my comfort zone. Meet new people. I remember reading over the application that I had just completed, ready to turn it in. I sat in my tiny apartment in Dallas and glanced at a calendar, and thought, “I’m going to be twenty eight by the time I’m done. Is that really what a want?” Turns out, as I clicked the “submit” button on my computer, yes that was exactly what I wanted. And maybe just what I needed.

The past twenty seven months have been the wildest, most exciting roller coaster I’ve ever been on. I had no idea what I was signing up for back in early 2014. There were tears at the airport, nerves on the plane, confusion in D.C. and excitement at the Miami airport. Fear kicked in once my group landed in Lima after midnight. The realization of what I had done finally hit me: I had signed on for twenty seven months of what would be some of the most challenging times in a completely unfamiliar place in a world where, among many things, the language and culture were not my own. Staring out the bus window into the dark sky, everything was suddenly very real.

Slowly, though, life in Peru became normal. Or, at least, it felt less like a place I was visiting or trying to work in, and more like home. Peace Corps has given me so many wonderful things. Those “government issued friends” are some of the best around. I feel so fortunate to have built friendships with people whom I admire and hope to never lose touch with. My time here also gave me another family. And my Peruvian host family is one the best. I am biased, of course, but I did strike the jackpot with them. Now I have another set of lovely parents and younger siblings. And they taught me so much about life and tradition and love.

It was expected that certain things would be given up during this ride on the other side of the world. As early as my interview prior to being invited to serve, I was asked, for example, how I handle long periods of down time. “Can you find ways to entertain yourself? How important is exercise and diet to you? Are you willing to change that? Tattoos may need to be covered. Religion will be discussed. Try to avoid politics. Certain parts of yourself may need to remain dormant. At least for a time. You just wait and see.” Some of these were easier than others. Giving up a drying machine, for instance, was not that hard. The fast food, the high speed internet, and the ability to call anybody I wanted just to chat – easy to give up. Other things were more difficult: lack of privacy and a loss of independence were two of the harder ones. Two years of constant stomach issues was, while not very fun, something that simply became another aspect of my life. More intense things like catching Dengue fever challenged my will a bit. Losing the ability to exercise regularly in a place I felt comfortable became a distant dream, or a fond memory of a time when that was as integral a part of my day as the scoopful of rice on my lunch plate now was.

Things were missed. I saw so many people start new chapters of their lives through the lens of social media. I heard updates from home thanks to family emails. Occasionally American news popped up on Peruvian television. It fascinated me to watch everything going on in this other place I call home. But now I was watching it through some long-reaching telescope from a far-away desert. Everything that had once been so familiar seemed to take on a slightly different shape. Or maybe I just began to see it all through a different perspective. Either way, as time progressed, the United States felt more and more like a place I would have to get to know again.

After rearranging things to make sure the shift into another life and culture would happen with as few bumps as possible, I find myself wondering once again how to get my mind into a place where going home – going back to everything that was at one time all I knew, but now seems like another planet – won’t knock me flat on my back at the shock of it all. Though, even with all of the readjustment tips and mental preparation, I have a feeling that as soon as I step off that plane, things won’t be quite as they were before.

But that’s part of the roller coaster ride, isn’t it? I left. I learned. I found things and people and places I never knew existed before. I tasted food and drink that was unknown to me prior to Peru. I danced until the early hours of the morning. And all of that will always be with me. Peru is a part of me now. And it will be with me wherever I go from here.

There were so many lessons learned over the past twenty seven months. And Garth Brooks’ song probably has the best one of them all nestled into its lyrics:

“But you’ve got to be tough when consumed by desire
‘Cause it’s not enough just to stand outside the fire”

The dreams that were brewing inside of me as I signed on for two years of work, tears, laughter, pain, joy, love, and learning led me to who and where I am today. It’s easy to push things aside, tuck them away in a drawer for a rainy day. It’s harder to go after something that might seem crazy or unattainable. But it can be done. And now, even if I’m scared, or even if I have no idea how something will turn out, I know that I can walk within the flames, and I’ll be ok.

No. I’ll be great.

To my Peru

To the country that welcomed me and my friends to serve and live

To the organization that allows me to experience another life and culture

To the Peruvians who helped prepare me for this journey

To the wonderful Peruvian doctors, without whom I would be scouring WebMD in a whirl of panic every other day

To my Spanish teachers, who believed in my ability to learn their beautiful language, even when I undoubtedly blurted out statements like, “I would like to pizza for them.”

To the kind Peruvian women with whom I’ve been able to work over the course of my time here

To the men on the street who address me as “señorita” instead of “guapa” or “hermosa”

To the street dogs, who just want a little love. And maybe some chicken

To my sisters, who are willing to listen when I need it most

To my oldest host brother, who speaks to me in my first language when I’m too overwhelmed to recall a word of Spanish

To my American parents, whose love I can always feel, no matter the distance

To my host brother Beto, who likes to put dead bugs on me, and is always willing to help me with a new word

To my host sister Sophia, whom I only saw twice, but who was willing to sit at a table with me at a fiesta when I was too tired to dance

To little Diego Martin, the shining light of my time here in Ica

To my host dad, who cooks the most amazing dishes, and is the kindest man I’ve met in Peru

To the students I’ve worked with, who have helped me learn their language, their culture, and who have probably taught me more than I could teach them

To the CEBE kids, who make me smile every time one of them grabs my hand to ask if I will push them on the swing

To my host grandpa, who has the most amazing stories

To my host grandmother, who still intimidates me, but knows exactly when and where to show her love

To the sandwich lady on the corner, who remembers exactly what I like each time I order from her

To my former sitemate, who helped me through one year of my service like only she could

To my fellow volunteers, without whom this journey wouldn’t be the same and have made so much of it unforgettable

To my host mom, who is my best socia, my role model, and so much more

To the sand dunes that I watch the sun set over every day from my home

To the foothills of the Andes, which help me keep in perspective why I am here

To my other half, who I am so grateful I found while in this wonderful country

Quiero decir muchas gracias por todo. ❤

 

 

No A.C. No Problems

I’ve never realized how many songs there are about summer. There are A LOT. Ok, sure, there are a lot of songs about a lot of things. But after songs about love, relationships, and a good dog (for those country music lovers) it seems that special time of year where the days last forever is what tends to strike a cord (chord?) with people the most.

And how could it not, really? Being here, I find myself reminiscing a lot about those Texas summers. I close my eyes and fall back into so many memories. I hear the late night cicadas in the trees just outside of my grandmother’s guest bedroom window, and the soft bubbling of her fish pond. I hear the radio announcer’s animated voice as he calls strike three for the Ranger’s pitcher while I’m sitting on the steps of our backyard pool with my dad. I feel the sweet, sticky heat on my skin after a late night lacrosse game. Sure, it gets hot. Especially in Texas. But people and places just seem happier this time of year. And while I do miss those lovely, almost magical Texas summers, this final one for me in Peru has been pretty wonderful.

School ended earlier last school year – in November – so there haven’t been classes since then. The school year will pick up again in March. So, things have been a lot quieter. My two little host brothers went to Cajamarca in mid-December with my host dad. He is originally from there, and took this summer as an opportunity to show his roots to his two sons. I went home for the holidays, which was wonderful. Two weeks in Texas were full of family, friends, and food. It was a little tough to come back, but at the same time felt like returning home.

This summer, I really experienced the super-fun aspect of Peace Corps when our projects don’t work out. A big struggle for volunteers can be getting host-country nationals motivated to get involved with our projects. I had been lucky so far, in that wherever I was working or looking to work, the people were (for the most part) pretty excited and eager for me to be there. When I got back to Peru I was super stoked to form a parents group with the parents of the kids I’d worked with at the CEBE (Special Education school) all last year. I’d been talking about forming this group since October. I made flyers. Handed them out at end of year events. Spoke at some parent meetings. The school director even reminded everyone about it. The week before my group was to start, I began to make phone calls to all the parents. Spoke with many. All very excited and positive. “We’ll be there! What time does it start? I’m looking forward to it!” What a way to get a girl excited about work.

First evening of the group: nobody shows. I chat with the groundskeeper of the school as I wait and watch my hour tick by. “It’s tough during vacation time. People like to stay home in the heat.” I glance out the window at the cloudy sky. It’s not that warm, I think. But maybe they all forgot. Something came up. Life is hectic with kids; sometimes more so with these wonderful kiddos. I pack up and decide to call around to remind them about next week.

Same thing happens. Back to the drawing board.

While the parent’s group was a bit dejecting, it did end up motivating me more to find other work for the summer. Because these days are LONG. So I asked my number one socia (aka host mom) and she suggested a school I go to to ask about helping out there. An all girls school only a few minutes from my house, I show up one day to ask about their summer school schedule. The director was lovely, and she was like, you can start today if you like! And very quickly, I had a very full schedule of English classes.

With El Niño doing all sorts of things to the weather here in Peru, schedules have been weird. So, even though work hasn’t been as prevalent, I have take advantage of the time we have free and traveled a bit. I went to go see my brothers and host dad up in Cajamarca. Roughly a fifteen hour bus ride from Lima. (Sidenote: make sure you remember to take altitude medicine as soon as the bus leaves, NOT when you’re getting to your high altitude destination. Puking on a bus? Check!) Cajamarca is a beautiful mountain city, full of friendly people, volunteers I hadn’t seen in a while, and, of course, my adorable brothers whom I hadn’t seen in two months. Plus, rain! Oh how I missed rain. But boy was it cold there. This desert volunteer is not made for no sun and freezing temperatures.

I’ve also gotten to travel around my own region a bit, visiting other volunteer sites. Cañete, El Carmen, and this weekend I’m off to Nasca. Trying to get in as much traveling as I can before the summer ends in a few weeks.

And while the traveling can be a bit rough – no A.C. on those buses and occasional sand storms that keep the bus windows closed – it’s worth it to see as much of this beautiful country as I can. I have just under seven months left here in Peru, which is hard to believe. But until my time is up, I’ll be here, making more magical summer time memories.

 

 

¡Feliz Navidad!

Because I know myself, and I know that I tend to procrastinate certain things (believing I work better under pressure), I’ve decided to write one more blog post for 2015 while my suitcase sits half-empty across the room from me. Packing to go home for the first time in almost 19 months has proved to be, well, not necessarily difficult, but sort of intimidating. I think it’s more the idea behind the suitcase. What it represents. I know I’ll throw in some clothes and all the layers I can find to survive temperatures that drop below 70 degrees, but I hesitate a bit because everything that home represents is a little scary at the moment.

I’m going to digress. Over the last month and a half, there have been a lot of goodbyes. We said goodbye to Peru 22 (four volunteers in our region) in early November. They were the volunteers whom I had known the longest, apart from those in my own group. It’s still sort of hard to believe they’re no longer in Peru. But like all of us will be doing eventually, they’re off to bigger and better things, and have left us in Peru 23 as the “oldest” and most experienced of volunteers in the region. Which in itself is a very strange thing to think about.

I could have sworn I was just getting to Peru, terrified and excited, and thinking I was going to have to drink papaya juice every day for the next two years. But suddenly it’s almost 2016 – the year I finish this journey. Looking back at the day I clicked “Apply” on the Peace Corps website, 2016 seemed so far away. I recall thinking: “Wow, I’m going to be 28 by the time I’m done with this. Do I really want that? What will be happening then? Will things be different?” Turns out the answers are, “Absolutely.” “Lots of wonderful things.” and “Things will be very different, but in the most amazing ways.”

I had pictured myself isolated in some small village when I signed up for Peace Corps. Instead, I ended up in a bustling city, only a few hours from volunteers. I even got lucky enough to have a site mate for a year. She too, is somebody I’m saying goodbye to as the year draws to a close. It’s funny, this Peace Corps thing. Those who we do bond with, become such fast friends. It’s been mentioned before that Peace Corps volunteers often feel like we’ve known one another for a long time, despite the fact we all just met over a year ago. But this time here bonds us in a way that is hard to describe to other people. I truly believe I could not get through this service without my fellow LIcaH volunteers. So saying goodbye, while necessary, is still very sad. However, because we’ve been a part of each other’s lives, I know these bonds will not be easily forgotten.

Obviously, going home for the holidays means saying goodbye. I wished my host dad and brothers a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year a few days ago. They left to travel north, to where my host dad is originally from, to spend some of their vacation there. My host mom I’ll say goodbye to tomorrow morning. And I’ll say goodbye to Peru, but only for two weeks. Then I’ll be in Texas. A place I haven’t been to in over a year and a half. I am SO excited to be home. The nerves are natural, I suppose. I’m scared I’ve grown too accustomed to Peruvian life that that pesky reverse-culture shock might hit me, hard. Still, the only way to find out, is to get on the plane and go.

crystals despidida

Despidida for Crystal (site mate) 15 of November. – The Lima, Ica, and Huancavelica volunteers.

.

Time to go tackle that suitcase. Salud to a Feliz Navidad y prospero Año Nuevo! See you in 2016.

 

Pumpkin-Carving Perspective

According to Facebook, everyone in the States is attending costume parties, drinking Pumpkin Spice lattes, and/or hitting up sports bars twice a week to catch their favorite college or professional football game. While two of those three would also probably be true for me if I were just a little (lot) further north — no pumpkin lattes, please — I will have to settle for living vicariously through everybody’s photos. While I sip my instant coffee and wonder when I last got a hair cut.

With my trip home approaching, it’s making me think more and more about the cultural differences I’m experiencing, and what that’s gonna look like once I step back onto Texas soil. Part of me is pretty nervous. I’ll try to explain. As volunteers we often find ourselves with time to talk. And as volunteers, we usually end up, sooner or later, on the subject of what life will be like for us once we’re home. I’m hearing more of that lately, since our lovely 22ers are on their way out over the course of the next month. (That means we in Peru 23 are next. But I’ll save that internal crisis for another post!) Anyway, we don’t just wonder what we’re going to do with our lives once we’re back, though that of course is something we concern ourselves with (as our parents appreciate no doubt). But we think about how accustomed we’ve grown to Peruvian culture. I can’t remember the last time, for example, I could walk outside at night and not have to find somebody to accompany me. What will we do without street food available at practically every corner? Will we still try to pass our beer glasses to our friends at parties, expecting them to help us share the beverage?

Regardless of the inevitable culture shock, one thing we are certain of: we couldn’t do this without each other. Peace Corps is an experience that can be described in many words, but the one I find myself using a lot is “weird.” Life is weird. And wonderful, fun, difficult, sad, etc. But mostly, weird. But thankfully as volunteers, we get to go through the weird together. This will always be a part of our life experience. And that’s something so important and lasting. I’m so thankful for the people I’ve met along the way.

Speaking of people, my host grandmother was in town this weekend. She often comes to visit, dropping off fruits and veggies she’s brought from her chakra. Some of you may recall that she basically terrified me the first time I spent time with her, which was just about this time last year. Flashback: she, my host mom and I go out to the night mass for my site’s saint, as October is a religious month here in Peru. We pop into a food tent after the mass and procession and are waiting on our sandwiches when she (grandma) turns to me and asks, “Do you celebrate Halloween?” Me, not knowing her very well, answers, “Well, yes.” (This was also the extent of my Spanish at the time; quite eloquent, no? )

To this she replies, “Halloween is the devil’s holiday.” I may not have had the words, but I sure understood that. I promptly hushed up and sat wide-eyed and fearful the remainder of the night.

Flash forward a year: she just spent the weekend at our house, and my sitemate and I Halloween-ed out yesterday. We took my brother to the grocery store so he could pick out his own pumpkin, we grabbed two for ourselves as well, and spent the day making Dirt Cups, carving jack-o-lanterns, and enjoying some baked pumpkin seeds. And sure enough, the question came up again as I was sitting next to my grandmother last night. “How do you celebrate Halloween in your country?” With last year in the back of my mind, I cautiously explained how I dressed in costumes as a kid, went Trick-or-Treating, and would stuff myself silly with candy. This time? A smile and a nod as my grandma grabbed another handful of pumpkin seeds.

Moments like that make this wild journey worth it. Sometimes it’s hard to remember that two of the three Peace Corps goals are all about cultural exchanges. But when it’s all said and done, that’s what we’re going to remember. Yes, the work can be stressful, draining, or maybe even non-existent. We can get sick more times than we can count in the course of a single month. But those moments when we sit back with the people we’ve grown to love and can’t imagine having never met; that’s what really counts.

English was especially difficult this post! Sorry. Here: enjoy some photos! No palabras necessary. Photos featured include my trip to Iquitos, the northern Peruvian jungle where I participated in a raft race; a paint project at my CEBE; and Halloween fun.

How Do You Measure a Year in the Life?

One Year.

One year of service has come and gone as a Youth Development/Special Education Peace Corps Volunteer in Peru.

Recently, at our Peru 23 Mid-Service conference in Lima, on our last day together as a Youth Development group until we say our goodbyes in eleven months, our Program Director helped us really soak in how far we’d come. A piece of tape had been placed on the conference room floor. The long strip stretched out about eight feet. Once we had all presented our Power Points showing the work we’d done thus far, he asked us all to join him on one side of the tape. He thanked us for what we’d accomplished as volunteers, acknowledging each of us in a way that has made him one of my favorite Peace Corps staff members during my time here. Then, he asked if we could please take a step forward to cross the line, moving into our official second year of service as volunteers.

Grinning, we happily did so.

I’m still in awe of the fact that a year has gone by. (Well, fourteen months, technically. But this all is in reference to our swear in date of August 22, when we became official PCVs.) It’s wild to think back on everything that has happened. All of the wonderful people I’ve met. The awkward situations I’ve found myself in. The words I’ve learned, and the plethora of which I’ve still yet to discover. The conversations I’ve had over a box of wine or an Inca Kola. The food I’ve stared at, chewed on, then quickly regretted. The laughs I never imagined I’d be able to share with Peruvians when I first arrived; wondering if I’d ever be able to understand this new world I was suddenly dropped into. The sweltering heat. The strange looking bugs. The sunsets. The books I’ve read. The TV I’ve watched. The places I’ve seen.

While Mid-Service was a wonderful time to see all of my fellow Youth volunteers, along with a much-needed dentist trip, it made me stop and reflect on this crazy Peace Corps journey.

When I arrived, I was excited. I was nervous. I was terrified. What’s going to happen when I leave my loved ones behind? What will it be like living in another culture, another family, another part of the world? How am I ever going to learn this language? If I can’t communicate well, how can I do the work I want to do? Adjusting to no AC? Rice every day? What do you mean I have to learn how to bargain? I have to give a speech in front of the entire school? In Spanish? You’ve got to be kidding me!

Now, after a year, I’m still excited. But it’s not the same kind of excitement. I had no idea what I was getting myself into. All I knew was that I was ready for something new. For new challenges. I love learning, so why not take that love for learning up to an eleven and package it in the trappings of a different people and culture? And I’m still learning every day. I like to say that I learn a minimum of ten new things each day here. However, now, things are established. My excitement comes from now having my feet planted somewhat firmly on this sand-covered ground which gives me the capability to navigate this world in a way I never imagined I’d be able to do twelve months ago.

I’m still nervous each day. Whether it’s meeting new people, or having to prepare a classroom session, or tasting something that looks like it might still be alive on my plate. But I embrace those nerves now. So much of life here has become a matter of “Well, try your best, it doesn’t have to be perfect, the words don’t have to come out right, but just try.” This oldest sibling who doesn’t like to color outside of the lines has learned SO much about loosening up and letting things go. Sometimes, leaving those marks outside the lines can actually be a fun and beautiful thing.

Spanish. This beautiful language I only had the tiniest, faintest grasp on when I arrived in country. Miraculously, after a solid language teacher in training, wonderful friends and fellow volunteers who put up (then and now) with thousands of “How do you say…” questions each day, loads of fumbling conversations, and a dash of personal perseverance, I’m in a pretty solid place. My language is by no means perfect. I have a lot to learn still. But now, I can haggle with taxi drivers, follow a work meeting, and, what I love most, enjoy the most wonderful conversations with my host family. Yes, the amount of charades necessary to get my point across has thankfully diminished.

Some days are truly wonderful. Some days are extremely difficult. Some days fly while others appear to stand still. But as I look at the days ahead, I see a future that fills me with joy. Here’s to finishing out my last year with just as much amazing, fun, awkward, lonely, hilarious, entertaining, educational, and lovely moments as the first year held.

A Year in The Life

It’s official. My lovely volunteer group, Peru 23 has passed their year mark of being on Peruvian soil. Just this past June, we got to raise our metaphorical glasses and give ourselves a pat on the back because, holy cow, we’ve done it. A year in this country.

Currently finding myself with a lull in my schedule after a series of trips and fun weekends before my week gets back to its normal self, I’m going to take the time to reflect a bit. I’ve already spent plenty of time staring at my constantly-changing wall calendar, feeling like I cross off another month every few seconds. Somehow, July is here. I’ve spent my second 4th of July away from the States. While last year’s was a whirlwind of fun Training Center activities with all 40 of us (mas o menos) having a blast, this time around I had my lovely LIcaH group in Ica to celebrate the day. We bought out Tottus (local grocery store) and indulged in hot dogs, baked beans, actual ketchup, and plenty of Coca Cola. There was even some American touch football played. I did, however, find myself wistfully glancing over the Facebook posts of fireworks, lawn chairs, and American beer. So while I desperately missed my family pool party and scaring my dog with sparklers, I have to admit that we did a pretty great job creating our own 4th here in Peru. It is, after all, hard to beat Peruvians staring at a group of 15 gringos having a picnic and getting too into a football game in the local park.

I’ve spent a Mother’s Day here, two Father’s Days, and missed lots of birthdays. I continue to see babies being born, people getting engaged or married, and graduations happening. Being in Peru and going through all the craziness that comes with being a Peace Corps volunteer here can usually distract me from the fact that I’m miles and miles away from my old reality. Sometimes I hear words like “Dr. Pepper” or “carpeted floors” or even “baseball games” and I’m like, “Oh gosh, yeah, those are things that exist.” I can’t wait to go back to the States in six month to visit. But part of me too, is a little nervous. Will I still seek out giant bottles of water to store in my room? Where is my alpaca blanket? What do you mean we can’t blare this music until 3am? I haven’t seen a chicken in days…what’s up with that? But really…family and friends be warned: it’s gonna be an interesting week and a half for this gringa who now buys milk off a non-refrigerated shelf and hasn’t driven a car in over a year.

Though, there are some things I will enjoy getting a break from. Despite being here a year, there’s still a lot of rice. I don’t think I will ever get used to that. Or people’s disregard for personal space. Or their upfront questions, such as “Why don’t you have kids? How old are you? Why aren’t you married? Did you gain weight?” Or the idea of punctuality.

Or, there’s good old unwanted attention. Since being in Peru, I’ve seen a number of blog posts from fellow volunteers on the unwanted attention we can receive as extranjeros here in Peru. Particularly, the attention we unfortunately receive as women in a country that is still dominated by the idea of machismo. Since moving to Ica, I’ve had mixed emotions about big city life for my service. While, ultimately, I know it is the right place for me, it does come with plenty of challenges. Compared to the smaller sites, where volunteers are recognized by the whole town, where they can walk around at night feeling a bit more secure because they’re a staple of the community, where they dance with the mayor at the town’s fiesta, Ica is quite the opposite. I rarely step foot in my mayor’s office. My work socios know me. A couple neighbors know me by name, apart from my tias that live on either side of us. And the bus kiosk lady and I are now on a first name basis. However, I rarely walk anywhere. One: because Ica is really big. Two: it was really hot for like six months and I could feel my soul melting. But three: it rarely feels truly safe and I do all I can to avoid cat-calling. Unwanted attention in the form of Peruvian men whistling at me, hollering out a random English phrase, whispering something unsettling into my ear as they pass me on the sidewalk, or, my least favorite, the kissing noise one associates with calling dogs, are a common part of life for a majority of (mostly) female volunteers, including myself. But, I give thanks for a host mom who kicks butt and equipped me with phrases to shout at men if they bother me. I’ve honestly, though, yet to try this method. I’ve only responded twice to cat-calling. One was to a group of teenage boys, trying to speak to me in English. So I said some sarcastic remark back to them in Spanish and they simply looked at each other, confused. The second was to a moto-taxi driver who said something like, “Hey beautiful eyes,” as I was crossing the street. I was a good fifteen feet away from him, with sunglasses on. So how he even saw my eyes, I don’t know. But I held up my hands, gave him a disgusted look, and said, “Really?” in Spanish. He just laughed as I continued walking.

If I walk around without a stitch of Peace Corps attire on or without sunglasses, I’ve found that the attention Peruvian men give me amplifies. So, I do my best to keep my Peace Corps issued vest on me if I leave the house. Sunglasses are a must. And I moto it everywhere to minimize my presence to people I don’t know. If I’m not walking outside, they can’t find me to whistle at. And sure, some of the moto drivers I’m stuck with for five minutes have complimented the way I look, but I let that roll off me and can usually start a conversation that I can steer in another direction. And sometimes I get really nice moto drivers who are genuinely curious and thankful about the work I’m doing here. It’s all part of this Peace Corps ride. It’s not easy, but it’s a part of it.

And while I did not plan on this blog being a place to vent about Peruvian machismo, I guess that’s what I needed to get off my chest. Still, Peru has a LOT of beauty. I’ve met some really wonderful Peruvians. My host family continues to be amazing. My host grandmother, who scared the crap out of me from the moment I met her and she asked me if I celebrated Halloween to only take my answer and say, “That’s the devil’s holiday,” now gives me a big hello every time I see her and tells me I am always welcome back to Peru once my service is done. She also calls me a “good Peruvian” because I eat anything. Small victories, no?

And after a year, I’ve formed some beautiful relationships with my fellow volunteers. I’m kind of glad my region is one of the least populated with volunteers. To me, this gives us a better chance at growing closer and building stronger bonds on this crazy journey that’s very individual yet together at the same time. I can’t imagine not having met my fellow volunteers. And it’s bizarre to think that without Peace Corps, we probably would never have known each other.

So, six more months until I step back on North American soil. A year and a month left of my service. Until then, here’s to more Inca Cola, being out of the loop on music and TV, and living vicariously through people’s snap chats and Facebook updates.

Fall is Here

So the first day of Fall down here in Peru has come and gone. Which I’m still finding hard to believe as it only feels hotter (which I didn’t think possible) in this bustling city. So, while I wait for the temperatures to take a dip, life continues down here for this Peace Corps volunteer. And, as per usual in the life of a PCV, plans are always a-changing. I woke up this morning to do laundry in order to pack for a trip I’d had planned tomorrow. Our IST (In-Service Training) was scheduled to take place on Monday of next week in a coastal city about 20 hours north of me. However, due to the intense rainy season the north has been experiencing, the roads are too damaged from landslides for us to travel. So, I find myself with some free time to finally update this blog. And there is plenty to write about since summer time was pretty fantastic, as I had two rounds of visitors fly down to see just what Peru is all about.

Christy and I spent most of our week together in Lima. Which, even though I’d been there a few times, was really fun. I’d never experienced the touristy side of things; instead always just passing through in the past or going there for some training event. So this time was really wonderful to just relax and be showed around the city to learn more about it’s rich history.

We also made a brief trip down to my site and enjoyed Huacachina, the main tourist attraction down here. The oasis settled amongst the sand dunes is a sight to see. Plus, I, of course, had to take Christy sand boarding/dune buggying.

Dune Buggy I survived!

We had a day of overlap once my family arrived. I may have stayed up until the wee hours of the morning, staring out the hotel window, waiting for my parents and sisters to arrive. I hadn’t realized how excited I was to see them until there they were in the hotel lobby–real! In Peru! Hugging me! It was pretty magical.

Having my family in Peru was a blast. And also very surreal. For nine months I’d been in this country, stumbling along, finding my footing, and sweating my butt off on a daily basis trying to integrate myself into a new country, culture, and people. I’d talked about what I’d been going through, what I’d been experiencing, and what I’d had for lunch. But finally, my family was here in Peru and they could get a week-long look into what my life is like here.

We spent a day in Lima then flew out to Cusco early on the second day. I’d never been there, so it was just as exciting for me to step off the plane and get knocked out by the altitude see those gorgeous mountains! It really is stunning out there. Not to mention a wonderful change of pace from my desert life.

We spent about three and a half days traveling all around Cusco. We were rarely in the same place twice overnight. But we saw so much. Cusco markets with fried cuy (guinea pig), 100% authentic llama and alpaca clothing, and of course, Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu is, without a doubt, amazing. You can feel the history of its people as you walk up the mountain and through the ruins of their abandoned city. And while unfortunately, the more I learned about the history, the more sad I felt for these people, it couldn’t take away just how breathtakingly amazing the Inca people were. What they accomplished has survived for centuries thanks to techniques that are sometimes hard to imagine and wrap my mind around. And it’s not only Machu Picchu that’s amazing. There are so many other ruin sites that just astounded me. Plus, it was clear how proud Peruvians are of their country. It was obvious with every tour guide we met and with every “Thank you so much for choosing to visit us” that made my heart swell with pride that I get to call this country home for another year and a half.

Cuy! Tour Time Queen of the World! Sisters Pablo Alpaca...I think Sisters on a Train Coolest litle town Machu Picchu hehe Pla Sun Gate climb Hikin WP_20150316_15_37_46_Pro Condor. Puma. Serpent. Cusco at sunset Had to celebrate St. Paddy's! Wine Tour in Ica

Overall, it was a wonderful two weeks here in Peru. I am SO happy that Christy and my family could come visit me. Both of my family’s even got together. My host family hosted a lunch for my North American family. It was honestly kinda bizarre to have everyone together. But more so, really really beautiful. My family indulged in my daily dose of rice and chicken, enjoyed some Peruvian beverages, and we all hung out on the patio together. Despite the language barrier, the air was filled with a mutual love and respect for having to deal with this crazy gringa on a daily basis. (Kidding. Kinda of.) I’m so glad my Peruvian and North American families got to meet and share a day together.

But all vacations come to an end. Everyone flew back to the States and I got back into my work routine. There’s lots happening here in Ica and I’m excited to see what the year brings.

Here are some photos from my Peruvian bday. We celebrated mine and Diego’s together, since we’re a day apart.

So that’s it for this month’s update. Here’s hoping I can write again soon!

My second title for this was “How Many Times Sam Can Use the Word ‘Amazing’ in Her Blog.” I apologize for the insane shrinking of my vocabulary. Gracias, brain.

Eight Months In

Welp…I’ve officially been in Peru for a little over eight months (as of Feb 4), which is mind-blowing. It really feels like yesterday I was sitting in the Miami airport with a group of awesome still-strangers, wondering just what the heck I was getting myself into. It’s been quite the ride thus far, but even with all the ups and downs, I don’t regret any of it.

I’ve also realized I’ve been slacking a bit in this blogging department. Mostly because it’s summer time, which, at least for me, has meant hosting classes for Vacaciones Utiles. I’ve got four weeks down of classes and two more to go. I’ve been hosting classes three days a week (Tuesday-Thursday) from 8am to 12pm at the colegio where I was helping out with English classes in the spring (er, fall?). Now that I’ve had several weeks under my belt, I’ve seen the numbers of my kiddos fluctuate, but now I have a group of four who come regularly, which I’m extrememly happy about. So many Peruvians take these summer months (Dec-Feb) to travel so sometimes it can be hard getting kids motivated to attend summer school classes. (I know I recall fighting my parents on the idea back in the day.) But the group I’ve got are really great. Two guys and two gals from ages 14-15. For some reason they enjoy this weird gringa’s company, so they keep coming back 🙂

So I’ve been teaching classes on English (a lot of English), Culture, Critical Thinking, Sports (baseball and hockey are actually two different sports I promise kids), Art, and Environment. Some days are better than others. Some days my Spanish fails me. Some days we’re all on the same page and having a blast. It’s really only gotten better as the weeks have gone on. Small Bonus: three of the four kids have very American names, which I get a kick out of.

Anyway, because of these classes, I’ve been pretty busy. If I’m not in my classes, I’m planning for them. So much lesson planning! Props to teachers. I don’t know how you guys do it. All of my free hours are dedicated to getting things organized for my classes, which is exhausting, but also allowing me to really use some creativity. In the end, it’s pretty fun. I mean, I get to teach these kids about other cultures around the world they might not have ever even seen pictures of before, and get them to use their creativity in creating modern art pieces. Pretty rewarding stuff.

It’s a bit bittersweet that there are only two weeks left of classes, but that just means I can “really get to work” as my host mom puts it. I’ll present my Community Diagnostic to the leaders of Ica to show them where I’m going to focus my work, and then start the process. More time will be dedicated to my Special Education school. I hope to also work with an all-girls school in the area in the hours of tutoria, and continue to work at Colegio Ezequiel Sanchez (where I currently am.) Maybe some sports-related projects in there too. I’m excited to see what the year brings.

Apart from all of that, February means Carnaval here in Peru. The biggest celebration is in Cajamarca, but that’s way up in the Sierra and I can’t go up there. Still, each part of the country has their own version of it, which mostly includes water balloon/gun/bucket fights. Last weekend I got a little taste of this with a water balloon fight with my brothers and cousin. It was a blast, and I’m sure it was a sight for the neighbors to see the gringa drenched from head to toe chasing down her brothers with water balloons. I think the big parties start next weekend, so we’ll see what those bring!

Also: I’m only a month out from my favorite people coming to visit me! I cannot wait 🙂 March will see me traveling around a bit, showing off this wonderful country.

And as wonderful as this country is, it still has it’s own system of beliefs. So, here, have some of my favorite Peru-isms:

  • “Just a little” to eat does not exist. Telling my host mom that, “Yea, I’ll have just a little mango to follow up the already complete meal I just ate” results in my receiving a bowl packed to the brim with cut mango. “Thanks host mom!”
  • Putting something hot in the fridge WILL break it.
  • Also, opening the fridge when you’re sick will 100%, without a doubt, kill you.
  • The sign of rain most definitely means an earthquake is coming. Just wait for it.

Alrighty, have some pictures!

 

Summer Time

Summer vacation is in full swing here in Peru. What this means? More jovenes hanging around the mall each time I go there to escape. More jovenes filling the streets and parks. And my host brothers are home all the time, which means I get to, on special occasion, wake up to my youngest host brother belting the Peruvian national anthem at the top of his lungs.

What it also means down here in Ica: it’s HOT. Like, really. I’m told it’s going to get hotter, and will be worst in late January-early February. So, that’s something to look forward too.  My host family has already taken to staying downstairs (on the first floor) for a majority of the day in order to stay cool. It’s that, or up on the patio first thing in the morning or at sunset to catch a nice breeze. Temperatures read (in Farenheit) upper 70s or low 80s, but it feels like a good 90-95. Take away A.C., put yourself in a desert, and park yourself a little closer to the sun and that’s a bit of what I get to enjoy each day.

So thankful I grew up in Texas.

Anyway, I’m not sure where I was going with this blog post. Hmm..let’s do a little “Now that I live in Ica” list, shall we?

Now that I live in Ica, Peru, I…

  • purchase 2.5 liter bottles of water on the regular. You know, just for the day. (These are about the size of my torso, if anyone wasn’t sure.)
  • start sweating as soon as I wake up, while drinking my morning coffee, and after a nice cool shower. I’m pretty much sweating all the time here.
  • get to haggle with moto-taxi driver on a daily basis. Usually 3 or 4 times daily.
  • carry TP around with me at all times. It’s hard to come by in public restrooms. (Be sure to pack this, family!) Plus, you’ll never know when you’ll need to make a run for it.
  • eat whatever is in front of me. Usually the question, “What is this?” results in a response that I don’t (want to) 100% understand anyway. 99% of the time, this ends well.
  • have become invested in the nightly TV programming. Everything is on hiatus now, and I just don’t know what to do with myself between the hours of 6 and 9pm.
  • hang out at the mall. I dreaded the mall each time I had to go in the States. Pretty sure I actually, physically had a reaction to the people, the florescent lights, the endles aisles of clothes and shoes (my poor mother who had to put up with me can vouche for this). But here, since it’s once of the few places with Air Conditioning…you’re going? Please take me with you!
  • talk about the weather. A lot. We all know it’s hot. It’s always hot. It’s always sandy. But every day, at each meal, in between meals, walking down the street, or in a moto: “It’s HOT!”

Alright….That’s all I got. I think my brain is too hot–and possibly melting–to create a more structured post this time around. So, please enjoy some pictures! And Happy 2015 from Peru!